You might want to hold the syrup on this waffle, it’s a bit too much fiber for anyone’s diet.. but you’ll want to make everything out of this amazing texture stitch once you see how easy it is to make!
You’re sure to love running your fingers over the thick, squishy fabric this stitch gives you. Also, if you’re a fan of crocheting for relaxation, this is a great stitch for you! It’s wonderful for meditation, prayer, or deep thought.
What is the waffle stitch?
The waffle stitch is a two row repeat with an awesome raised texture. This one sided stitch is made up of double crochets and front post double crochets, but don’t let that intimidate you. Front post double crochets are easy once you know how to make them and I’ve got step by step pictures to help you out.
The waffle stitch is definitely a yarn eater, however I think it’s worth it for the outcome. So if you have some yarn around that you’d like to use up, this is the stitch for you!
The waffle stitches raised texture make it a perfect candidate for color changing/self striping yarn, manual color changes and solid colors.
Some variation of this stitch are the square waffle a variation on a granny square, the single waffle, the dimond waffle, and the united stitch (also called the V stitch waffle). All of these variations are beautiful raised texture stitches.
- Yo = yarn over
- Ch = chain
- Fpdc = front post double crochet
- Dc = double crochet
- <> = total number of stitches in row
- Worsted weight yarn
- I’m using Crafter’s Secret in Spa Blue Stonewashed
- Size I/5.5 mm crochet hook
- Yarn or tapestry needle
Waffle stitch tutorial
The waffle stitch is worked in multiples of 3 plus 4. (Example: 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, plus 4. 15+4=19)
Foundation row: Ch 22.
Tip: Make 18 double foundation stitches here instead and skip ahead to row 2!
Row 1. Yo, insert your hook the 5th chain from the hook and make a dc, make a dc in each of the remaining chs. <18>
(refresher for the dc)
Front post double crochet: Yo, insert your hook behind the dc from the previous row so that it is pushed forward, Yo, pull the loop through the dc, you should have 3 loops on the hook, Yo, pull through 2 loops, Yo, pull through the last 2 loop.
Tip: You should skip the top of the stitch you went around for the fpdc and continue to the next stitch.
Row 2. Ch 3, turn, make a fpdc around the next dc, put 1 regular dc in the next 2 sts, *make a fpdc around the next dc, put 1 dc in the next 2 sts,* repeat until you come to your last 2 sts, put 1 fpdc in the next st, make 1 dc in the top ch from the previous row.
Row 3. Ch 3, turn, *put 1 dc in the top of the fpdc from the previous row, make the next 2 sts fpdcs, * repeat the pattern til you come to the last two sts, put 1 dc in each of the last 2 sts.
Row 4 – 8: Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 8 rows total. be sure to end on row 2 so it mirrors the bottom of the work.
Snip the tail, tie off, and weave in your ends. That’s it!
This is the front and back of the swatch.
If you’re having trouble distinguishing the rows it takes two rows to make each square.
I’ve highlighted each row on my swatch to give you an example.
The green line represents the starting row of double crochets, the red lines are row 2, the purple are row 3.
This is a great stitch for blankets, scarves, washcloths, ponchos, squares on a texture blanket, hats, cowls, shawls, and bags. There are many more possibilities for this stitch of course, these are just the ones I can think of off the top of my head.
If you want more of a drape to your fabric, then you can use a Dk (3) weight yarn with a H/5.mm hook or larger. If you want something a bit stiffer and warmer than use an H/5mm hook with a worsted (4) weight yarn instead. Feel free to experiment with yarn weight and hook size to get your ideal fabric.
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