The double thermal stitch is an amazingly warm and thick stitch that has a wonderful lay to the fabric. It’s a one row repeat that is twice and thick as the single thermal stitch and works up a bit faster.

This is a great stitch for larger projects that you need to be nice a warm with almost no visable holes.

There are two types of thermal stitch, the single version and the double version. The thermal stitch in both cases is a one row repeat that is reversable, which is always nice. It is a little bit fiddly when you first start the stitch, but well worth it once you’ve got it down.

Single version

The single version is much better for smaller projects, it is rather expensive both in time and yarn. However, it is a beautiful stitch and you can’t help but be proud of the investment once you’re done.

Double version

It definitely seems to use less yarn than the single thermal because you are making higher rows which means less rows. The stitch makes a wonderful spongy type texture. If you want to make a garment or large project like a blanket, I would definitely use this one for it. Bear in mind that it will take a lot of yarn because much like the single version you are crocheting both sides of the project.

Supplies

• Peaches & Creme in the colorway of rosemary (Or any 100% cotton yarn)
• Size J or 6mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle

Abbreviations

• ch = chain
• Dc = double crochet
• Fl = front loop
• Bl = back loop
• <> = total stitches
• YO = yarn over
• Ins = insert
• Lp(s) =loop(s)

Double Thermal Stitch Tutorial

To get a good idea of how to make this stitch I’m going to have the tutorial make a potholder. Which is why I’m going to use 100% cotton yarn. You don’t want to use synthetic yarns like acrylic or polyester when there’s heat involved, it will simply turn to plastic, I’ll show you the difference at the end.

Another advantage to this stitch is that you can use any number of stitches plus 2.

Row 1. Make your starting knot, ch 20, then ch 2 more. <22>

Row 2. YO, and ins your hook into the back ridge of the 3rd ch from the hook, you may have to turn your work over to find the ridge, dc into each ridge. Make sure you count the tops of the stitches <20>

Row 3. Turn the work so that the starting tail is away from you, ch 2, YO, insert hook into the Bls (the one closest to you) and the Fls from the original ch, YO and pull through the first two lps, YO and pull through 2 lps, YO pull through the last two. Repeat this 19 more times. <20>

Row 4. Turn your work so the row you finished is facing you, ch 2, YO, ins your hook into the Bl (from here on it will be the loop furthest from you) and the Fl from the previous row, YO and pull through the first 2 lps, YO and pull through 2 more, YO and pull through the last 2 lps, repeat 19 times <20>

Rows 5. – 18. repeat row 4 across all 20 stitches.

Row 19. The last row is a single thermal, but instead of going through the Bl only, go through both top lps and the Fl from the previous row, pull through all 3 lps, Yo, pull through that last 2, repeat 19 times, <20>

Optional hanging loop; Ch 11, ins hook into the corner st and sl st, turn, ch 1, sl st into each ch, tie off and weave the tail into the pot holder using a yarn needle. If you do not want a hanging loop simply tie off and weave in the end at the end of Row 19.

Variations and comparison

These are some of the pot holders I’ve made with this stitch. Feel free to play around with it! I used the Crafter’s Secret cotton in the colorway of spring time for the colorful one, but the yarns a bit thinner more like a 3 than a 4. That’s why I made the same pattern with a change in hook size to a I or 5.5 mm, to show the difference.

I’ve heard of using wool yarn for pot holders as well, but it’s not as easy to clean as cotton is. You’ll end up with a felted pot holder after a couple trips through the wash and that kind of defeats the purpose of crocheting a pretty stitch. However, if it’s your preference, go for it!

As promised this is what it looks like when you set fire to acrylic yarn as opposed to cotton.